Val D’Anniviers

Just South of Sierre, the villages of Chandolin, St-Luc, Grimentz, Vercorin and Zinal provide a largely unconnected ski area regarded by many as some of the most outstanding slopes in the entire Alps. Grimentz is the prettiest of the villages, Vercorin has the most facilities, St Luc and Chandolin share what is the largest connected pistes in the valley and Zinal probably gives access to the best off-piste. With a long, tortuous road journey to access the slopes and overshadowed by more famous resorts in Valais, this valley really is an almost undiscovered gem of wonderful, uncrowded slopes.

Ski Area Val D’Anniviers
Resorts Chandolin, St-Luc, Grimentz, Vercorin, Zinal
Ski Region Valais
Piste (km) 220
Top run (m) 3000
Bottom (m) 1650
Max Drop 1350
Snow’n’Rail Y
Black (km) 15
Red (km) 45
Blue (km) 30
Lifts (#/hr) 12170
My Rating 5
Alpine 4
SnowPark 4
Nordic 3
Hiking 3
Family 3
Apres Ski 1
Free Ride Y
Snow making Y
Fun park Y
Snow park Y
Half pipes
Spa

In Brief

Leaving Switzerland’s sunniest town, Sierre, from the heart of the Rhône valley, an impossibly tortuous road takes you up to pretty Visoise. From here roads fan out to all the ski areas (although Vercorin can also be reached by cable car from Chalais, just outside Sierre). Post buses link Sierre to Visoise, and from there additional postbuses serve the entire valley.
The road to St Luc and Chandolin is the hairiest, but the reward is some of the best piste and off-piste in the Alps. There is a funicular railway from St Luc and two chairlifts from Chandolin, but parking is a short walk away from both and this is the limit of the non-surface lifts in the system that connects the two villages. Despite mostly being served by drag lifts, this is a fabulous area for snowboarders with none of the flatter connecting runs that require you to unclip and walk at any point. With runs up to 3000m there is good snow throughout the season and the tree-shielded valley runs down to Chandolin (2000m) and St Luc (1650m) tend to stay open very late into the season. With huge areas of off-piste to enjoy, the largest vertical descent and 65km of piste you may not want to visit the other areas in the valley, but that would be a mistake.
Zinal (1670m) has the best road out of Visoise and is the resort furthest up the valley. A cable car takes you to Soreboise (2440m) where there is a playground and some nursery slopes. A couple of chair lifts then takes you to the Corne de Soreboise at 2896 from where there is a long run to Grimentz, a micture of red, black and mogul runs back down to the chairlift stations and a large area of off-piste. With a guide it also possible to go off piste over the other side of the Corne de Soreboise into the Val de Moiry. To the south of the resort perimeter is a long surface lift that gives access to a designated freeride area and plenty of additional off-piste. The off-piste out of Zinal is some of the best in the Alps but, outside of the areas mentioned, really does require a guide. In addition the valley runs don’t bring you back to the cable car in Zinal and don’t stay open as long as the resort runs in the other villages in Val D’anniviers.
Grimentz is a pretty family resort with good facilities and a fine range of on (45km) and off piste between 1570m and 2900m. You can generally avoid using surface lifts except to access the Becs-de-Bosson area, but this offers some of the most rewarding slopes and shouldn’t be missed.
Vercorin’s gondola lift to the Crêt du Midi (2332m) gives access to 35 km of piste, a snow park with a half-pipe, marked off-piste, sledging runs, winter hiking trails, snowshoe routes and 12km cross-country skiing. Like all the resorts, the summits provide fabulous views across the mountains of Valais. Across the Rhône valley you can make out the sunny South-facing slopes of Crans-Montana.
If Val D’annivers had a mountain railway there is little doubt it would be considered one of the world’s great winter sports areas, but would also have all the crowds, commercial activity and bustle of it’s illustrious neighbour, Zermatt, in the next valley off the Rhône. As it stands it is a charming, near-mythical valley with some of the best and extensive on and off-piste conditions anywhere in the Alps. Some of the installations would benefit from being upgraded, but even at weekends you are unlikely to hit any queues.

Flumserberg

It is barely an hour by train from Zurich (90km away) to Unterterzen, via Ziegelbrücke, and the fast gondola adjacent to the station takes you up to one of Switzerland’s best kept secrets, Flumserberg. At weekends this place does get busy, but during the rest of the week some of the most varied slopes in Switzerland are virtually deserted. With stunning views over the Walensee, flexible accommodation options and proximity to Zurich Airport, this resort really is a perfect destination for a mid-week break.

Ski Area Flumserberg
Resorts Flumserberg
Ski Region Eastern Switzerland
Piste (km) 65
Top run (m) 2222
Bottom (m) 1200
Max Drop 1022
Snow’n’Rail Y
Black (km) 7
Red (km) 39
Blue (km) 19
Lifts (#/hr) 23000
My Rating 5
Alpine 3
SnowPark 4
Nordic 1
Hiking 2
Family 3
Apres Ski 3
Free Ride Y
Snow making Y
Fun park Y
Snow park  
Half pipes  
Spa  

In Brief

Arosa

Arosa is a long-established resort lying at the end of one of the most spectacular rail lines in Europe. It is pretty in parts but very spread out and, because it attracts a large non-skiing clientele, rarely has queues or crowds.

Ski Area Arosa
Resorts Arosa
Ski Region Graubünden
Piste (km) 70
Top run (m) 2653
Bottom (m) 1739
Max Drop 914
Snow’n’Rail Y
Black (km) 5
Red (km) 20
Blue (km) 35
Lifts (#/hr) 21500
My Rating 5
Alpine 3
SnowPark 3
Nordic 3
Hiking 3
Family 5
Apres Ski 3
Free Ride Y
Snow making Y
Fun park
Snow park
Half pipes
Spa

In Brief

Engelberg

The easiest of the great Swiss resorts to get to from Luzern by road or rail along the beautiful Engelberg valley, the “Town of Angels” seems to be overlooked by most international visitors except the Scandinavians. The town has a reasonable amount going on for party-goers, casual visitors and families whilst the main ski and snowboard area off Titlis has some fabulous slopes and impressive off-piste, including the Laub run.

News for 2010/11, is an extended range of facilities around Lake Trübsee, including a Sliding Park, snowXbike riding, improvements to the tubing park, rental of Bob or articulated sledges and a 120m long magic carpet lift.

Ski Area Engelberg
Resorts Engelberg, Brunni, Titlis, Trübsee, Jochpass
Ski Region Central Switzerland
Piste (km) 82
Top run (m) 3020
Bottom (m) 1050
Max Drop 1970
Snow’n’Rail Y
Black (km) 9
Red (km) 53
Blue (km) 25
Lifts (#/hr) 21400
My Rating 5
Alpine 3
SnowPark 3
Nordic 4
Hiking 2
Family 3
Apres Ski 3
Free Ride Y
Snow making Y
Fun park Y
Snow park Y
Half pipes
Spa

In Brief


There’s a diverting ski area with a good kid’s beginners area off the relatively new Brunni cable car just outside Engelberg and some freeriding opportunities up the valley (both on bus route 2) at Fürenalp, but the main ski area is off Titlis, with good early and late season skiing from the top station and plenty to keep most skiers and boarders occupied the rest of the time. The bottom station for Titlis has ample parking near or nearby, but it’s not free. The walk from the railway station is not arduous, but in season you can use the local bus service for free and save your feet. Incidentally, if you do take the superb train journey from Luzern, be aware that the transfers can be tight – the Engelberg train runs from the last platform and you usually need to be in one of the first carriages. Weekends can get busy in the peak season, but the pistes and lifts can be surprisingly uncrowded midweek or at the beginning and end of season when the snow is still very good.

Apart from Brunni, there are some good beginner and early intermediate slopes at the halfway station on the gondola up Titlis, although only served by T-bars. For everyone else, skip this stop and head off to Trübsee, where you have a choice of taking the Trübsee Hopper across a frozen lake to some pleasant red runs and off-piste off Jochstock, or go up Titlis either to Stand or all the way up to Klein Titlis. Unless you take the revolving gondola back down from Klein Titlis, you need to either go seriously off-piste or take a steep marked trail to get back down, although there are some good short red runs at the top. From Stand there are some lovely red runs back down to Trübsee or the off-piste run down the Laub. Be warned that Titlis is not a safe mountain for the inexperienced to go off-piste, except around Jochstock when the avalanche risk is low, and even there you should be properly kitted.

Do not be surprised on your ascent to share the cable cars and gondolas with Asian tourists. Like some other mountains in the Alps, Titlis has featured as a safe alternative to Kashmir in a number of Bollywood movies (including Lagaan), but the biggest draw is in the view from Klein Titlis where a rock outcrop has the reputed appearance of Buddha. Judge for yourself, then pose for the tourists gamboling around in the snow who will want to take a souvenir picture of you and of their memorable ascent.

The tourist literature often talks about Engelberg having one of the highest verticals in the Alps, but (unless you go off-piste) this requires you to take the steep marked trail down off Klein Titlis and then break up your run to take the Trübsee Hopper to take the valley run back down to Engelberg – not a big deal but not comparable perhaps to the genuinely long pisted runs of Zermatt or Davos. Having said that, Engelberg deserves more renown as a resort than it gets outside of Scandinavia and has something for pretty much every type of party or level of skier or snowboarder.

For non-skiers, Luzern is an hour away, but the town itself has a lot to offer, including the Benedictine monastery and various other winter activities. There is a good range of accommodation on offer, the Edelweiss being the best choice for families. You can stay overnight up at Trübsee, either in an igloo or in the Berghotel Trübsee, but party animals would probably prefer staying in town where the nightlife can be quite lively.  The Chalet at the Titlis base station and the Yucatan in the centre of Engelberg are good places to kick off the evening. For self-service lunch or a rendezvous over a beer Berghotel Trübsee is pleasant and convenient.  At the bottom of the marked trail from Klein Titlis there is a good restaurant at Skihütte Stand, and at the end of the Laub run, the excellent Ritz restaurant. The terrace bar at Jochpass is also a good place for a drink or to rendezvous on a sunny day.

The ski school is good and will act as ski guides too (+41 41 639 5454). Outventure (+41 41 611 1441) also provide guides. There’s a range of child-minding services available and ski school can be taken from age 3.

Full details on the resort can be found at the Swiss Winter Sports web site.